It is time for true confessions, Oregon
style. We have a tendency to be spoiled
in the midst of our foodie utopia and wine sanctuary. All that is so readily available
around us can be taken for granted. Daily
we pass by restaurants and gourmet food shops that garner national
acclaim for the food and wine they serve.
Reminding ourselves to stop and smell the roses can be a brilliant
lesson in appreciating what we have in our own backyard.
One of these lessons in
appreciation transpired during a pre-IPNC
dinner last July, a few days before the main International
Pinot Noir Celebration festivities began. The
dinner was hosted by Byron and Dana Dooley, and featured Byron's Luminous Hills and Seven of Hearts wines. Wines were paired with an eight course
tasting menu at Noisette, a French
restaurant in Northwest Portland. Noisette’s Chef Anthony Demes spent eight years
at the helm of Couvron, a jewel in Portland’s restaurant scene, before its
closing in 2003. He pursued other opportunities around the country, including
his hometown of New York, before returning in 2010 to open Noisette. Demes’
modern French cuisine was a magnificent match with Byron’s elegant wines.
The first course featured the Seven
of Hearts 2011 Pinot Gris paired with Oregon Line Caught Albacore Tuna. The fruity aromas on the nose were wonderfully
expressive and intense, the palate a bit creamier than many Oregon Pinot Gris. Next up, was the Mahonia Vineyard 2010
Chardonnay served with Maine Day Boat Lobster.
Non-Chardonnay drinkers were asking for more of this Chardonnay. Many will be watching the Seven of Hearts website next spring for the release of the 2011
Chardonnay, which will be sourced from Gran Moraine Vineyard. (The 2011 Pinots will be released next month.)
The rosé of the evening was the Luminous Hills Aura
2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir. The Luminous Hills wines are all estate fruit from
Yamhill-Carlton’s Luminous Hills Vineyard; the Seven of Hearts fruit is sourced
from various other vineyards. Paired with an Oregon Spring Onion and Cauliflower Soup,
the rosé held up well to the savory flavors. This versatile rosé was also sipped
earlier in the evening by arriving guests, wonderfully crisp and light on its
own.
The first of three Pinot Noirs (fourth,
fifth and seventh courses) was the Seven of Hearts 2010 Armstrong Vineyard.
Ancient Grain and Morel flavors and textures were ideal with the bolder structure
of this Pinot. The Armstrong Vineyard is located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The soil in this AVA often produces more tannic Pinots, yet this wine is still easily approachable in its youth.
The second Pinot Noir was the Luminous Hills 2010 Estate Pinot, coupled with a
B.C. Diver Scallop and Braised Short Ribs. Byron describes this wine as “…the
broadest and clearest expression yet of the big picture story that Luminous
Hills has to say.” Finally, Luminous Hills 2010 Lux Pinot Noir accompanied by
Moulard Duck Breast and Veal Sweetbread with Port Wine Sauce. Rich complex flavors, spice and berry came
together perfectly.
The evening’s selections also included two
sweet wines, courses six and eight. Seven of Hearts 2011 Ice Princess Viognier
was interestingly, yet successfully presented with Moulard Duck Liver, Brioche,
Hazelnut and Medjool Date Puree with Sauternes Sauce. Quite a mouthful to say,
but a complex balance between the sweet and the rich savory flavors. The final
course presented a Cherry and Chocolate Brioche Pudding served with Seven of Hearts
Coupe’s Cuvee, 2011 Pinot Noir. Very
port-like in flavor, the deep fruit flavors and smooth finish brought the
incredible event to a close.
This was an occasion to be savored. During Byron’s initial words of welcome,
he graciously thanked friends and supporters of the winery for being part of Dana's and his community. Throughout
the evening, he moved from table to table, speaking with wine club members,
friends and industry associates, mutual respect clearly expressed. An energetic
round of applause was given for Chef Demes and the excellent staff at Noisette.
That evening, nothing was taken for granted as we all stopped to smell the
roses.
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