From Corey McTaggart
Summertime
is off with a bang in Southern Oregon’s hot, sunny Applegate, Rogue, and Umpqua
valleys. Barbecues, graduations, weddings and family outings are on the
docket. What will you find on the table during the summer season? Well if you're playing your cards right, chilled – and local – rosé.
Beautiful
pinks are once again rising to the top, in the Pacific Northwest overcoming a lot of bad memories of sugar-added, chemically
“enhanced” White Zinfandels from the 1980s and beyond. (editor's note: Thanks California.) Since 2008, France has been selling more rosé wines than
whites. Rosé sales in the US climbed 39% last year, making it the eighth
year in a row that double-digit increases have been reported.
The
reason? Rosé is becoming a better made product. Instead of the
run-off juice left over from a precious red, many wineries are now creating rosé
with intention. Winemakers are carefully planning the next vintage.
If a winery specializes in Pinot Noir or Syrah as a red, for instance, they may want to additionally showcase the varietal as a rosé. Pinks are
showing up on the finest wine lists, offering the best attributes of both reds
and whites, often with a crisp acidity and lower alcohol that loves food, even
difficult pairings such as salty and spicy flavors.
Rosé
flaunts the same characteristics as the spring and summer seasons it shines in,
light, playful, along with being sharp and varied. The deep, dark fruit
essence of the red wine it might have been is softened into delicate and
delicious strawberry, raspberry, cherry and often rhubarb. Citrus, stonefruit,
and tropical notes may also be prominent.
Depending
on the grape and the desired outcome, a rosé may spend as little as a few hours
or as long as a few days in contact with the skin. Lighter skinned reds
such as Grenache are frequently soaked longer than are more potent varieties,
for example, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Hillcrest Winery in the
Umpqua Valley of Southern Oregon even produces a Blanc de Noir, a colorless red
with as little skin contact as possible.
Most
rosés are meant to be consumed in the first year, when they are at their
brightest, fruitiest and most aromatic. (There are wineries
that produce oaked rosés which are intended to be aged, although these are
rare.) Pair a rosé with meats and vegetables on the summertime barbecue grill, fruit kabobs, salty cheeses and fresh salads tossed with olives and
tomatoes. Save a couple of bottles for Thanksgiving, too – rosé can be a perfect companion for heavy sauces, turkey or ham. A rosé can be served very chilled, as
it will quickly warm a bit in the glass, allowing the wine to open and reveal layers and complexity like one might expect when letting a red wine breathe.
PebblestoneCellars 2012 Rosé of Syrah
The 2012 Rosé of Syrah from the Rogue Valley was produced
by crushing the Syrah grapes and then leaving the Syrah grape juice in contact
with the skins for 6 hours. It was then pressed and cool-fermented in stainless
steel. Approximately 5% Viognier was blended into the final wine to enhance
aromatics and flavor. The resulting wine has a beautiful ruby color with aromas
and flavors of fresh plum and dried fig and a dry, balanced finish.
2013
Quady North Rosé (Grenache, Syrah,
Mourvedre)
The 2013 Quady North blended
rosé was originally a blend of
the "saignees" from the Syrah that went into their 4-2,A, a red
varietal Syrah. Over the last few years, they have begun incorporating
early picked and pressed Grenache and Mourvedre with their favorite Syrahs from
the Applegate and Rogue Valleys. The wine wafts strawberry along with hints
of lemongrass and honey from the glass.
2013
Quady North Rosé (Cabernet Franc)
The
2013 Quady North Cabernet Franc rosé from
the Applegate Valley is a medium cherry color with floral notes, candied lemon,
strawberry and rhubarb.
Winemaker Joe Dobbes has made a fun, slightly
sparkling patio sipper for South Stage Cellars in the Rogue Valley. A blend of 80% Petit Sirah and 20% Cabernet
Franc, they recommend this rosé sparkler as a
party wine with fruit salad and cheeses
Wooldridge
Creek Sparkling Rosé 2013 (Tempranillo, Zinfandel)
The Wooldridge Creek, Applegate Valley method champanoise
sparkling pink explodes with fresh strawberries, mango, kiwi and watermelon.
Wooldridge
Creek Rosé 2013 (Tempranillo, Zinfandel)
Wooldridge Creek also makes a lovely dry still rosé, also
from the Applegate Valley, which is smells of lemon zest with cherry on the
palate and a little creaminess to soften the crisp acidity a bit. Behind the tasting bar, Shelly’s eyes light
up as she relates pairings with cheese, salami, calamari, and even burgers.
2013
Troon Vineyard Foundation ’72 Dry Rosé
(Sangiovese, Montipulciano, Primitivo)
Troon Vineyard has produced a light-colored rosé
with aromas of key lime and meyer lemon finishing clean on the palate with
strawberry and melon. The grapes hail
from one of the original vineyards in Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. Suggested pairings are pasta, shellfish,
salads and mild cheeses.
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